A: Quite simply because we are professionals. We may not be the cheapest service out there, but we are the best!! Your “old pool guy” is your old pool guy for a reason. We always show up, we always do a great job, we always care about your pool, and we always make your pool look better then it ever has before. Besides, how much are you really saving if your other service doesn't show up and algae starts growing in your pool. Now you are stuck paying someone else to come in and clean up the mess. Or because he walks in and out of your yard in 2 minutes, or his chemical imbalance puts holes in your skimmer and pool heater and causes copper sulfate staining in your new plaster and he never notices a leak in your equipment or a motor that is running too high or running dry. As a result he ends up costing you hundreds and hundreds of dollars in repairs. As the saying goes “The cheap comes out expensive in the end”.
A: Depending on the pools normal evaporation. It is about 1" to 2-1/2" per week. When the days are warm and the nights cool evaporation is at it's highest. Using the ordinary plastic bucket you can perform this simple test to determine if your pool is leaking.
- Bring pool water to normal level. (middle of skimmer)
- Place bucket on 1st or 2nd step of pool.
- Fill bucket with pool water to same level as pool.
- Mark water level on inside of bucket.
- Shut off pump and mark pool water level on outside of bucket.
- Resume normal pump operation.
- After 24 to 48 hours, compare the 2 water levels.
- If the pool water (outside mark) goes down more than inside water level, there is probably a leak.
- In case of rain repeat the test. (Be sure if your pool is equipped with an auto fill to shut off water supply.)
- Test is invalid after 48 hours.
A: First, determine the average depth of your pool by taking the depth of the deepest end of your pool and adding the depth of the shallowest end (in feet). Divide this number by 2. This number is the average depth. Continue below based on the shape of your pool.
*Square or Rectangular*
Total Gallons = length x width x average depth x 7.5 (in feet)
Total Gallons = diameter x diameter x average depth x 5.9 (in feet)
Total Gallons = Long Diameter (in feet) x Short Diameter (in feet) x Average Depth x 5.9
A: Your pool filter is the most important component in keeping your swimming pool clean. Ideally, a filter should run all the time for maximum circulation and debris removal. 1 Hour for every 10 degrees. Ex: 85 degrees would need to run 8.5 hours
A: To retard chlorine evaporation, maximize water clarity and prevent algae your pool filter should run during the hottest part of the day.
A: This is dependent upon several factors. (the size of your pool, size of your pool filter, the type of pool filter you have, bather and contaminant loads most manufactures recommend a minimum of twice a year complete filter tear down and cleaning for DE Filter and quarterly for cartridges filters.
A: There are many factors which go into determining the correct size of filter for you swimming pool, spa or water feature. You must first determine the required turnover rate and pool volume in gallons. Using this information, we can determine the 'flow rate' using the following formula: Flow Rate = Pool Volume / Turnover Rate / 60min/hour after determining your Flow Rate we can use the following equation to determine Filter Area (Filter Size) Filter Area = Flow Rate / Filter Media Rate.Here's an example. You have determined that the total pool volume is 25,000 gallons and your required turnover rate is 4 hours. We must determine Flow Rate as follows; 25,000 gallons/ 4 hours / 60mins/hour = 104 gpm. We will now assume that you are planning to install a DE filter and we will use 2.0 gpm/ft^2 as the Filter Media Rate. Filter Area = 104 gpm / 2gpm/ft^2= 52 ft^2. Therefore, you would need to install a 60sqft filter (round 52sqft up to next filter size) to properly circulate and filter the pool water. It's always better to oversize versus undersize the pool filter when in doubt.
A. - There are several types of filters and each is outlined below with a short description. For more information on what might be right for your application please give us a call. Bacteria and algae particle size are measured in microns. The smaller the micron the finer it is to detect with the human eye.
- SAND - This is the least common filter and it's very easy to use, however frequent backwashing, which is necessary to clean the sand in the filter, uses a lot of chlorinated water, which essentially wastes the chlorine and water. (SAND FILTERS CAN PICK UP 50 TO 100 MICRONS, THE LEAST EFFICIENT)
- D.E. - (Diatomaceous Earth) This is the only filter we recommend and provides the best water quality, however, it is the most difficult filter to use and requires a lot of attention. (D.E. FILTERS CAN FILTER UP TO 2 MICRONS, THE MOST EFFICIENT)
- CARTRIDGE - This is the most user-friendly filter and provides water clarity similar to that of a D.E. filter, however the replacement cartridges for the filter are expensive, wear out, and can tear easily. (CARTRIDGE FILTERS CAN FILTER UP TO 30-50 MICRONS, DECENT BUT MOST ALGAE WILL PASS THROUGH A CARTRIDGE FILTER)
A: Only if you have a submersible pump and are familiar with adding start up chemicals (Cyanuric Acid, Stain Out, Chlorine, Acid). Draining a pool using the pool filtering pump usually will not work once the water level drops below the skimmer and is a lot of strain on your filter grids. We do offer a draining service with balancing of chemicals once refilled.
A: Ducks will avoid your pool if the majority of the water is somehow obscured or if the pool seems to be in use.
Try these first:
Fill up as much of the open water surface as possible when the pool is not in use. Throw two large multicolored beach balls in the pool. Add two or more large alligator floats. A few safety pool ropes stretched tightly across the pool will also give the illusion the water is full, and the ducks will should find another place to stay.
A: We do not recommend swimming with your pool lights on unless you have a GFI (GFCI- Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter) and check it monthly by pressing the "test" then reset button. If the button does not depress when pushing "test" then "reset" your GFI might be bad and is not safe to swim.
A: CONVENIENCE: Many of us simply can not afford the time it takes to maintain a pool on a regular schedule. We do the work and take the time to inspect the pool and the equipment for proper operation. If small parts are needed, they are obtained and installed on the next service date, saving you an inconvenient trip to the pool store. No need to lug home gallons of acid and chlorine and find a place to store them safely when not in use.
COMPETENCE: We are experts, because we maintain pools for a living. Knowing what it takes to obtain the proper water chemistry is what we do daily. We know what to do if we spot an algae bloom. As with most things, consistency is critically important and that is why we come on the same day every week. We notice changes in the water balance and adjust accordingly.
COST EFFECTIVE: It will cost you a little more for us to maintain your pool, but probably not that much. You will probably spend an average of $30.00 to $40.00 per month for the necessary chemicals, including chlorine tablets, muriatic acid, shock treatments and chemical test kits. For only a few dollars a week more, we will come to your house and do it all for you.WHAT IS YOUR TIME WORTH?: Lets do the math, If you spend an estimated 1 hour per week x 4 weeks per month cleaning your own pool and lets say you earn $20 per hour at your job $20 x4= $80 plus you are spending $30 to $40 per month on chemicals (and time to pick up chemicals). It's costing you $120 per month at best to clean your own pool.
A: Generally no.
- It is an insurance liability for us to add water.
- When water is being added it makes it difficult to see the bottom of the pool while we are vacuuming.
- Time. Our pool technicians are at your home for only 30 minutes. In 30 minutes at 7 gpm (gallons per minute) we would only be able add about an inch of water or 210 gallons, not a significant difference.
A: Yes! We highly recommend assisting us in emptying your skimmer and pump baskets especially during the fall/ windy season. If your baskets are overflowing the leaves will impair the water circulation and your pump will run dry.
A: NO! A pool should not be drained for more than a couple of days. Without water your plaster will crack and in very rare instances where water tables are high pools have actually risen or popped out of the ground.
A: This would depend to a great degree (pardon the pun) on the size of the pool and the BTU rating of the heater. However, I have an 18' X 36' pool (about 25,000 Imperial gallons) and my gas heater raises the temperature at a rate of about 1/2 degree per hour.
A: An average sized spa 580 gallons with a gas pool heater should take approximately 45 minutes to get from 55* to 104* If it is taking substantially longer your heater is too small or it needs service.
A: If you have an electric heater then you have a portable spa/ hot tub and it must be covered when heating it. If you do not have a cover, get one right away. Portable spas are made to be heated and stay heated. Electric heat elements heat water very slowly at approximately 4 to 5 degrees per hour. It takes approximately 6 to 8 hours typically to get to 104* which is why it must stay covered to retain the heat.
This is a valve problem. If you are using an automatic system, the automatic valve is either turned off or broken. You can call us to determine this over the phone.
Shock the pool, using three times the recommended amount of shock. (2 lbs per 10,000 gallons is the recommended amount, so use six pounds per 10,000 gallons of pool water.) Apply a mustard algae treatment. Wait 48 hours and then shock again, but this time with the recommended amount of shock. Always make sure your pool has plenty of chlorine tabs.
Yes. Most pools can be heated, but expect your heater to run continuously for about 25 to 30 hours.
In most cases we have found that it costs $80 to $90 to heat the pool initially. Also, running the heater from start to finish of your gas billing cycle seems to cost almost the same.
There are three types of pool cleaners, and each has its benefits:
Pressure, boosted –- the Viper is a good one
Pressure, non-boosted – a Polaris, for instance
Suction – a “Kreepy” is a good one of these.
This indicates a suction leak. You will need a professional tech to locate it and make repairs.
Yes, some pools can lose as much as six inches per week by evaporation.
You can count on your professional, uniformed Klein Pool Care technician to be there every week, 48 weeks each year. We do have four (4) non-service weeks each year, usually the week of Thanksgiving, the week of Christmas/New Year, 1 week in the spring and 1 week in the summer. You will always be notified in advance of these non-service weeks.
We typically work in light rain, cold or hot weather, snow, ice, etc. However, we cannot service swimming pools when there is lightning in the area. If bad weather prevents us from servicing your swimming pool on your specified day, we will make every effort to service the pool the very next day if possible.
Klein Pool Care respects your privacy and your property. If we do need to arrive on an unscheduled day (such as to perform extra maintenance or a quality control check) we will either call you in advance or knock on your front door when we arrive.
Our commitment is to your privacy and your scheduled service day. We will always do our best to service your pool on your scheduled day. However, if that's not possible, we will call you to re-schedule your service on a different day.
Our Weekly Full Service Program includes:
25 Point Pool Cleaning System
- Add Water
- Skim Pool “Top and Bottom”
- Empty Skimmer Basket(s)
- Empty Pump Basket(s)
- Backwash Filter- DE 1x a month Sand 2x a month
- Vacuum Pool
- Leafmaster Pool
- Brush Pool
- Brush Spa
- Total Chlorine
- Free Chlorine
- Cyanic Acid
- Auto Cleaner Bag Emptied
- Auto Cleaner Wall Screen cleaned
- Auto Cleaner Operation inspected
- Inspect/adjust Time clock panel
- Visual Inspection of pool equipment for leaks
- Inspect Salt Cell
- Release Air from Filtration System
- Check/Inspect filter pressure
Your pool care technician will check your equipment at each weekly visit. Minor problems will be fixed on the spot; if your equipment requires more extensive servicing we will note that on your site visit assessment (in the notes section) so that we can further discuss the corrective action needed. We are fully trained and licensed to clean, repair or replace all of your pool equipment.
Our normal policy is not to add water but to indicate such on your Site Visit Assessment in the notes section, asking you to add water to the pool. If you plan to be absent from your home for an extended period of time, please contact us before you leave.
We service swimming pools, spas, and fountains throughout the Greater Houston Area.
Yes. All of our pool care technicians are either Certified Pool Operators (CPOs) and/or Certified Pool Inspectors (CPIs).
License, Training & Insurance
The State of Texas does not offer or require licenses for pool care providers. However, "in Texas, there must be a written contract for all home improvement projects over $500." A state contractor's license is required to enter into this contract.
Bottom line: If all you need is weekly pool service, no license is available or required. But if you need your pool company to install or repair pool equipment, you should only deal with a reputable, licensed provider.
If your pool service company makes a mistake that causes damage to your property - or, worse yet, bodily damage to a person - you want to know that they have insurance to cover those circumstances. For example, the technician might accidentally leave the water on and flood your home, or leave the gate open so that a neighbor's child enters your yard and gets injured in your pool. While we at Klein Pool Care strive to provide a level of service that would preclude these types of problems, we feel you deserve the peace of mind that comes with knowing we are a fully insured pool service.
A Certified Pool Operator, or CPO, has undergone a course of training sanctioned by the National Swimming Pool Foundation, a nationally-recognized organization devoted to aquatic health and safety. There's much more to pool care than just removing leaves! The CPO designation ensures that your technician knows what he or she is doing, and has received the proper training to protect both your health and your investment. You have made a significant investment in your swimming pool, your pool cleaning company "should" make that same investment in their pool technicians.
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